May 11, 2018
While the single-dish menu is currently very fashionable, London also has a long history of chop houses so Blacklock ticks both boxes in this regard. The small Soho doorway conceals a cavernous basement space. The atmosphere is lively and there are a range of £5 cocktails available, including a delicate Nettle Gimlet and a refreshing Aperol Negroni. There are more complex cocktails in Soho but not at this price; the cocktail trolley is a very pleasing thing and the wine list, while compact, is decent. The real star of the show here is the meat. While you can go a la carte if you wish, most people opt for the £20 all-in deal, which gets you a vast platter of chops – lamb, beef and pork, expertly cooked over charcoal, juicy and flavourful, served on top of a grilled flatbread which slowly soaks up the meaty juices like an awesome edible sponge. There is also a smattering of pre-feat nibbles including little egg and anchovy crisps, and a range of sides including grilled little gem, charred sweet potatoes, kale salad and a crisp zing slaw. There’s only one dessert option, which is served from a large bowl, and vegetarians aren’t accommodated even in the most tokenistic way, but if you want to banquet on meat while drinking quality cocktails, this is a place you need to visit. As is the norm these days it has a no-reservations policy (in the evening, you can book at lunch) so it’s worth coming early to have a better shot at a table.
Main photo credits: Blacklocl official Facebbok page