May 11, 2018
This urban beach shack lacks only the salt tang of the sea. Located in Fitzrovia, Bonnie Gull serves fresh fish and seafood and superior cocktails in eminently pleasant surroundings. The interior is white and light with weathered wood panelling and a map of that day’s catch on the wall. It’s a small room but it has a homely, cosy feel, pretty without being twee. There are also a few outdoor tables should the sun ever deign to shine on London. The short cocktail list is inventive and full of intriguing savoury notes, the drinks delicate yet complex. A crisp Champagne Punch containing gin , elderflower cordial and lemon juice was prettily swirled with cassis; a Bonnie Lass, a mix of vodka, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, and peach bitters, was similarly refreshing and the First Thyme for Everything, a blend of gin, dry vermouth, thyme liqueur, fresh thyme, was potent and subtly herbal. All of the drinks paired well with the seafood-heavy menu, the drinks list featuring nothing too overpowering or bossy. There’s also a compact but well thought-out wine list. Their fish is fresh as it gets, the menu changing daily to reflect availability with the restaurant offering a more meat-centric menu on Mondays when there are no fish deliveries. There’s a raw bar featuring a range of oysters and razor clams – a dish of Palourde Clams came in a gloriously garlicky broth and set our meal off to a good start while their signature fish and chips, cutely served on a square of newsprint was lightly fried, the accompanying rosemary fries nice and crisp. Their mushy peas were more of a puree but it’s a small point. The staff are friendly and the place has a lovely summery feel which is appealing, sun or no.
Main photo credits: Bonnie Gull official website