London-City and East London
May 11, 2018
Yianni Papoutsis’s grease-spattered empire continues its conquest of London with a new outpost in Shoreditch, his most ambitious yet. Having started out manning a south London burger wagon, serving what many regarded as the best, most deliciously filthy burgers in the city, now encompasses three permanent venues. The faintly illicit MeatLiquor (just off Oxford Street, hidden behind a branch of Debenhams), Covent Garden’s MeatMarket and now east London’s MEATMission, a burger temple in a former mission hall with a striking Gilbert and George-esque stained glass ceiling. This new outpost offers goodies not available at previous incarnations including the ridiculously addictive Monkey Fingers as well as all the staples, including their famous bingo wings and those perfect American-style burgers the Dead Hippie is a favourite with the blogosphere plus a few artery-hardening glories like their ‘chilli garbage plate.’ Cocktails are potent and just as wicked as the food on offer. The Pinot Grinchio packs a considerable kick for a drink that mixes white wine and apple juice and the Peckham Negroni is also a joy. They’ve got an impressive range of beers on tap too and this venue doesn’t seem to get quite as rammed as the Welbeck Street original, so there are less insane queues (though that may well change) and it feels like a place you might linger in for longer, rather than simply eating and running. Which is a good thing because the atmosphere is hip without feeling forced and the food is crazy good.