London-City and East London
May 11, 2018
Plum & Spilt Milk, Mark Sargeant’s elegant restaurant at the Great Northern Hotel in the heart of King’s Cross is a delightfully grand space. Inside there’s a small bar area next to the main dining room with an eclectic collection of artwork on the walls. Cocktails include the Northern Sour, a mix of pink grapefruit with gin, Cointreau and rhubarb bitters, topped with a creamy froth and beautifully presented with an orange peel whirl on the rim of the glass. Citrusy and smooth, it was a delicate drink, not overpowering in its sweetness. The King’s Garden, a mix of mint, cucumber, lemongrass, gin and apple juice, was very refreshing and subtle with a strong cucumber flavour, almost grassy: the perfect summer drink. Both bar and dining room are decked out in rich shades of brown, gold and cream, and yet the layout is such that this isn’t in any way oppressive, giving an impression of airiness and space. The place feels intimate even when full and the glossy, granite-topped tables held little crystal vases of purple plums – nice decorative touch. Sargeant creates comfort food with a contemporary edge. Dishes like smoked haddock with poached egg and rich fish soup with dill hollandaise. Both mains were attractively presented in little black pots. A monkfish curry was well-cooked, lightly spiced and subtle it possible could have done with stronger spicing but this approach did allow the flavour of the fish to shine through. The lamb shank hotpot was fall-off-the-bone tender. Portions were generous and the service was friendly and well-informed. The place is elegant and tranquil, making it difficult to believe its right next to King’s Cross station. Real effort has been taken to ensure Plum + Spilt Milk is much more than just a generic hotel restaurant. It has a character of its own, making it easy to forget you are in the heart of bustling London.
Main photo credits: Plum + Split Milk official Facebook page