May 11, 2018
This Danish interpretation of a Modern American Steakhouse (hence the name, MASH) is a lavish, expense account kind of affair, the kind of place where you could easily splash a large amount of cash on superlative slabs of cow and superior drinks. Part of an established Danish chain this first London branch boasts a handsome dining room, one that exudes a certain kind of expensive international style, with its deep-piled red carpet and a grand staircase entrance. It’s a glamorous art deco basement space full of suited, sated diners. They serve a short range of classic cocktails as well as aperitifs to whet the appetite. Their signature Margarita is laced with eucalyptus syrup while their Tonka-tini blends tonka bean infused vodka with gin and Lilet Blanc giving a subtle note of sweetness to a classic drink. Real care is taken over the details, ice is hand chipped and cocktails are impeccably presented (as you might expect for these prices). The food menu is very much steak-centric with Danish dry aged cuts taking pride of place alongside a good choice of US steaks and an Australian Wagyu for those with deep pockets. There’s a small range of fish dishes and some tasty seafood appetisers (fried squid, half lobster, smoked salmon) but really this place is all about the cow: their approach is almost fetishistic in its reverence and meat can be seen hanging in specially designed cabinets. Vegetarians might want to consider going elsewhere.