May 11, 2018
One of a small but growing wave of Peruvian restaurants in the capital, Coya is a opulent spot based in a Grade II listed building at the Hyde Park Corner end of Piccadilly. The basement bar of Arjun Waney’s latest venture is bright and vibrant, all azure and bronze. A restaurant area sits to one side and there’s a private member’s lounge above. The drinks list is a celebration of all things pisco, that South American grape brandy that’s currently very much in vogue. Bottles of house-infused pisco sit behind the bar and the drinks list also features a range of premium and rare tequilas as well as an extensive selection of rums. A classic pisco sour has a fresh citrus kick and a delicate egg white foam, simultaneously potent and refreshing. Various flavoured versions are available, including a light fruity pineapple, though we preferred the slightly more sour notes of the passion fruit. From the list of house cocktails, a Chili Margarita, made with jalapeno infused tequila and agave, had a pleasing heat to it, while a Bourbon Fig Sour was smooth and well-blended, the flavours – as with all the drinks we tried – clear and fresh. A bar food menu includes various ceviches, grilled things and small plates, and the friendly staff are happy to explain the less familiar items. The prices are fairly steep – particularly the wine list.