London-North and Northwest London
- Great food
May 11, 2018
This attractive Stoke Newington newcomer eschews the raw brick vibe of modern watering hole for something a little sleeker and more stylised. Fontaine’s has an elegant art deco aesthetic, beautifully realised by its designers. The glassware is vintage and ornate silver palms frame a keyhole doorway. The carpet is a treat and there are lots of other lovely 1920s touches. They serve classic cocktails, well made, crisp drinks of the golden age of cocktails – a mighty Manhattan, an Aviation, a Negroni. They don’t tinker or experiment here, preferring to focus on doing the classics to the best of their ability. The space is more handsome than it is practical, with low white armchairs easier on the eye than the rear. But there’s live music fitting to the period, and tasty canapés on which to munch. The mood is sophisticated and the place has an agreeable atmosphere. We like the fact that it’s ploughing its own path and for all the attention to detail it never feels like a theme park, more like the set of some delicious and witty play.