London-North and Northwest London

3 / 5

May 11, 2018

The clue's in the name. This Islington bar and restaurant specialises in smoked things...

The clue’s in the name. This Islington bar and restaurant specialises in smoked things. It’s handsome place, homey and warm, with lots of weathered wood offset by the occasional sprig of herbal greenery, part pub, part dining room, the latter slightly more formal, the former casual and laid-back in atmosphere. There’s also a terrace area for afternoons when the London weather behaves itself. The beer selection is a treat. There’s Camden Hells, Meantime Yakima Red and Rothaus Pils on tap, as well a huge range of bottled beers featuring everything from craft pale ales to US microbrews to espresso stout to a German smoked beer (of course). There’s some real fun to be had exploring the menu. There’s a very decent wine list too, a couple of choice cocktails and, with Neil Rankin overseeing the kitchen you know the food will be the business, and so it turns out. The smokehouse element is showcased in various ways: smoked duck, smoked pork, even the veggie curry features coal roasted aubergines. The dish of burnt leeks and duck egg is a joy and their bone marrow mash is seriously decadent stuff – be sure to save belly space for their Double D tart, a glorious chocolate and nougat confection inspired by a Double Decker chocolate bar. They do a cracking Sunday lunch too.

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