One Leicester Street
May 11, 2018
Replacing the short lived St John Hotel a valiant but never entirely successful attempt to export Fergus Henderson’s temple to simple, ingredient-led British cookery to the West End is One Leicester Street, a glamorous bar and restaurant which already feels more at home in the Georgian townhouse. The space has been given a makeover, replacing the familiar St John minimalism with something a little more welcoming, contemporary and attractive, a space in which you can unwind. There’s a dining room on the ground floor, a bar on the first floor and hotel rooms up above with views down on the bustle of Chinatown. Tom Harris, the chef from the previous operation, is still overseeing the kitchen, serving seasonal, vibrant dishes: lamb sweet breads, razor clams, and an amazing plate of monkfish and anchovy. Desserts include a brown butter and honey tart and a dish of salt caramel, apple and hazelnut, the ultimate on-trend ingredient. Prices are pretty fair given the quality and location. The cocktail menu was thought up by bar manager David Swain, in which they serve contemporary takes on classic cocktails we were particularly smitten with their Wild Nettle and Rhubarb Gimlet and there are plenty of comfy sofas into which you can sink with your drink. The bar food menu echoes the delights below and the bar is open both to non-residents and non-diners should you just wish to stop by for a cocktail or two.
Photo credit: http://hotel.leicesterhouse.com/gallery