London-South West London

3.9 / 5 2 / 5

May 11, 2018

Located on Coldharbour Lane, this quirky Brixton eatery combines flavours of Japan with a dash of local Caribbean influence, be sure to check out Nanban.

Located just around the corner from the Ritzy in a former theatre bar on Coldharbour Lane, this quirky Brixton eatery, the brainchild of Masterchef winner Tim Anderson, combines the flavours of Japan with a dash of local Caribbean influence: Japanese soul food is how they term it. It’s a modern space housed, bright and light with counter seating downstairs and covetable wheeled booths upstairs. The food menu combines big and small plates with a focus on comforting textures and unexpected pairings. Dishes include rich goat curry, zesty grapefruit and chili salad, a challenging tripe dish, ‘Electric’ eel – nice Brixton-centric pun there – noodles, ramen (of course) and a kind of Japanese take on carbonara, pasta with pancetta, parmesan and fish roe, which is getting the Instagram crowd all excited. The sasebo burger has also got people worked up, topped as it is with tea-pickled eggs and Korean chili sauce.  Only the saltfish and ackee fritters are a bit of a disappointment, fine but lacking in zing. On the drinks front, there’ a comprehensive sake menu as well as a great selection of local craft brews and some sake based cocktails too. It’s clear as much thought has gone into this as into the food menu. If you really want to give your taste buds a work out, try the tasting flight of shochu, a Japanese spirit, made from rice, sweet potato or barley.