May 11, 2018
The latest Drake and Morgan venture – the team behind The Folly and The Happenstance among others – is a sprawling three storey affair on Holburn Viaduct.
The modern glass exterior contrasts pleasingly with the whimsical interior, all pot plants, woodland creatures made of wicker, shelves stuffed full of second hand books, Alice in Wonderland quotes penned on mirrors, and a delightful nook made out of even more books (we do love a nook).
The top level houses a lively bar, the middle floor an attractive event space, and the ground floor a bar and dining area.
There’s some delicious detail in the design, an abundance of charming little touches which raise a smile – the stairwell is papered with pages from books (do you see a theme developing) and the house cocktails – with names like the Sugar Plum Fairy and the Prince Charming – take their inspiration from fairy tales.
There’s also a line of skinny cocktails too, should you want to indulge without over-indulging.
From the crowd-pleasing food menu, a rib-eye steak was cooked a perfect medium rare and a butter bean burger was one of the better vegetarian options we’ve encountered. Cowboy fries, dressed with a sweet honey and garlic sauce, were all kinds of addictive and we liked our crispy squid starter a lot.
A bottle of Malbec was ripe and fruity and a good pairing to all of the dishes. The wine pricing as a whole is very reasonable with a large number of options priced under £20 and available by the glass and by the carafe. A blackberry and apple crumble, on the other hand, was a rather disjointed dessert, not overly fruity or crumbly, a wee bit dusty in fact. and the music was cranked up a bit too loud for our liking: fine if you’re just out for an after-work cocktail and a swift bite to eat, a bit oppressive if you feel like lingering over your meal. We know this makes us sound old – we care not.