New York City-City-Center
May 11, 2018
Acme was, for many years, the kind of place that served up generic ß-Southern foodß- as well as live music in the basement. But now the NoHo space has been impressively revamped by the team behind Indochine. The new bi-level bar and restaurant sports a menu designed by Noma’s Mads Refslund: he’s imported the philosophy behind the food at the accolade-laden Danish restaurant, with an emphasis on locality and the interplay of flavours. You might baulk at the slightly pretentious labelling on the menu (divided into such categories as ‘Soil’ and ‘Sea/Land’) but you can’t complain about the quality of the food, which includes seared Spanish mackerel or Berkshire pork and a reasonable, though certainly not massive, vegetarian selection. The flatteringly-lit ground floor bar area meanwhile is black and sleek with an inventive cocktail list including the Graffiti Green (a mix of gin, bell peppers, and basil) or the Jones St Daiquiri, the bar’s own twist on a classic. There’s also an extensive list of wines on offer. The venue has 25 tables in the dining room, but there’s also a ‘first come, first served’ eating bar for the more spontaneous/ disorganised types who don’t have reservations. The late night lounge downstairs is a relaxed space for a drink, and offers a range of bar snacks including oysters or foie gras terrine, and the basement venue hosts a live jazz trio in the early evenings Thursday through Sunday, making it the ideal place to chill over one of those quality cocktails.