New York City-Lower East Manhattan
May 11, 2018
Pulqueria is the latest venture by Heather and Christopher Tierney, the team behind the brilliant Apotheke. This of-the-moment Mexican bar is fairly well hidden in Chinatown but if you can find the unassuming entrance stairwell, you’ll discover an atmospheric space serving typically inventive cocktails. Many are made with the ancient agave-derived Mexican spirit, pulque, which puts drinkers in good company in Aztec culture the milky drink was deemed the ß-nectar of lightning godsß- and was enjoyed by elders, warriors and priests. The bar is the first restaurant outside Mexico to batch and serve the spirit, which gives a mellow, slightly sweet kick. If you hadn’t noticed, it also draws its name from the drink pulquerias are traditional Mexican meeting places where friends gather over tapas and barrels of freshly made pulque. Here, it provides a base for some fresh flavoured infusions, from watermelon to jicama, some laced with that other Mexican favourite, mezcal. Chase your cocktails with some authentic Mexican street food; their tacos are some of the best around. The subterranean space is low-key (and low-lit) but subtly stylish with influences drawn from ancient Aztec culture and the colourful street markets of Mexico City. Design details like the bar’s thatched roof, woven reed mats, turquoise mosaics and engraved stone murals take you a world away from the streets of Chinatown above. A DJ keeps the mood festive in the bar all night, and after 10pm the volume goes up a notch and the laid back fiesta becomes a full on party.