Paris-Opera and Les Halles
May 11, 2018
For a taste of a past Paris that’s less Belle Epoque and more nouvelle vague, a visit to the gloriously grungy Chez Jeanette is a must. The new owners, taking over from the original Jeanette in 2007, have cleverly (or economically) kept everything as it was. Nothing has been touched, from the chrome bar to the fizzing 1940s lights. Even the tobacco-stained wallpaper remains. This was a smart move and the bar has become increasingly popular with a media and creative crowd attracted by the slightly down at heel décor. Well-situated on the rue Faubourg St Denis, it’s one of the hippest spots in Paris to drop by for an aperitif or a platter of charcuterie at night – from the outside the place looks like an ever so slightly run down diner, though the surfeit of windows makes it a great place to grab a window seat and people watch. The menu is fairly standard French fare, though those with limited French can play it safe and order a burger and frites though if you’re looking for top quality Parisian cuisine this isn’t your place, as the venue trades more in atmosphere than fantastic food. As the sky darkens, the glaring fluorescent lights are sensibly switched off and replaced with flickering candles, giving it a more romantic vibe. The place has an appealingly rough edged buzz and when the DJs play on Saturday nights the music gets very loud indeed and the place gets very busy get there early or you may struggle to find a seat.