May 11, 2018
Owned by the Ambiente Group, Lokal puts a contemporary twist on traditional Czech cuisine. Styled as a modern beer hall, the narrow room is on the plain side, all dark wood and bare walls, the space dominated by shiny silver tanks of beer – and it can get pretty noisy and smoky when busy (which is much of the time) – but in many ways this place is a cut above. The beer is of course – the main focus here but the food is much more than just an afterthought. Czech staples like goulash, potato dumplings, sweet and savoury pancakes, and fried cheese with house-made tartare sauce are all well prepared and their meat is well-sourced, the dishes more elegantly presented than they would be at other similar establishments. There’s a small but decent range of wines available too, for those who don’t drink beer, and they stock a wide range of Czech spirits and liqueurs with which to round up your meal. We particularly like the orechova, a liqueur made from walnuts. A sister branch in Mala Strana is slightly less raucous despite being located mere steps from the Charles Bridge.